The high-waisted dress known today as "empire" dates back to the Directoire Period of France - the era directly following the French Revolution. Often called a "chemise gown" to satirize its scandalous brevity and lack of undergarments, it reflected a desire to return to simpler, classical Grecian dress after the excesses of nobility and patriot alike. Its peak of popularity was during the "First Empire" period (1799-1815); hence its name. It was worn floor length or as high as knee-length in front; trains were also worn for day or evening until 1806.
Folkwear presents this simple-sew classic in three lengths, with two sleeve options. A narrow bodice is gathered into a slim A-line skirt front and side panels, and full gathered skirt back that falls to just-below-knee-length, full-length or sull-length with train for weddings and formal wear.
On the traditional version, drawstrings fit the bodice firmly to the bust and tie at center back. For contemporary wear, we suggest a closed back and elastic in place of the drawstrings. Short puffed sleeves may be cut very high or slightly longer -- both are authentic. The longer sleeve features button and cord detailing.
Originals are of fine white muslin, tulle, organsy, or batiste, either plain or textured much like dotted Swiss.


To view the flat pattern drawing, fabric & notion suggestions, and yardage requirements, click the option to "view other images."